Temple No.21 Iwano-ue-dō + No.20 Kannon-ji

After my shakuhachi lesson in Tokyo yesterday I found very tasty miso ramen in Ikebukuro. Cozy foods like noodles in hot soup are starting to peak in attractiveness with winter. It reached a maximum temperature of 5 degrees in Tokyo yesterday.


Today I set out to appreciate the views of the snow-fall on Mount Buko and anything lingering from the night's first snow of the season, maybe ushering in a white Christmas. Today was the Emperor's Birthday in Japan, that will be marked by a public holiday tomorrow (though this fact was imperceptible around town).






Temple No.21 Iwano-ue-dō belongs to the Shingon sect of Buddhism and houses the tomb of a local Kabuki star.



Hidden away in bushes below the road on the hillside dropping to the river, No.20 Kannon-ji of the Rinzai sect is well-preserved, the oldest hall built on a large rock. Its ceiling is covered by numerous senja-fuda, pilgrim's evidence of visitation. The hall stands on the cliff by the river Arakawa and dates from the early Seventeenth Century, considered to be the oldest on this Chichibu Pilgrimage route, still maintained by the Uchida family living in the house next door: descendants of its founder, a Samurai warrior of influence.

In search of Temple No.18

On Friday, Temple No.18 looked fairly straight forward according to the map, off the main highway towards Yokoze. Being mid-afternoon already with practice, composition and dinner plans still on the agenda, I was looking for a simple ride. Enjoying the relatively flat road, I zoomed along and before I knew it spotted a giant roof of ceramic tiles and curvaceous roof idiomatic of many temples. Temples on the Pilgrimage Trail typically have little signs that indicate you have made it and since this one had none such I knew it was not No.18 but I was delighted to find it in the dying rays of afternoon sun, the courtyard glowing. I was glad to serendipitously discover a very majestic temple with two-storey wooden gate and many elegant sculptures. While you're thinking derogatory thoughts about my geographical abilities, it must be said that the Pilgrimage map has proved itself several times rather symbolic, rather than hugely accurate and a bit light on the details like side-roads and, of course, devoid completely of any English reference points. Next time, I should bring the GPS and refer to Google Maps. Interestingly, when you use Google Maps and fly-in to regions of country Japan, the map language is Japanese and it, too, is scarcely detailed in this region.



Outside this temple, I experienced my first encounter with a racoon (Nyctereutes procyonoides) (tanuki in Japanese), a member of the canid family related to dogs, wolves and foxes. Tanuki are the animals portrayed by the generous-bellied often bipedal upright ceramic characters found welcoming you to shrines, shops, homes, originally with large male organs. The real animal's impressive row of many canine teeth testified that the portrayal of the smiling creature is fairly accurate though it might be rather inhospitable. Unfortunately, I only saw this timid racoon-dog because it had been hit by a car and a group of school-girls gathered around to lament, though the racoon's spirit had long since left the scene and he seemed to be resting appropriately beside the temple cemetary. On my return journey, I happened on another temple and then another: the last one a small and humble, somewhat neglected shrine building being the likely No.18 Gōdo-ji candidate.





In the evening, it was Kundan's farewell dinner and it turned out to be even more festive than that. Kakizakai Sensei demonstrated his culinary virtuosity by making soba (buckwheat noodles). Soba is a Chichibu speciality and we were especially spoilt because he only makes them about once a year and typically that is for New Year celebration when the long noodles are an auspicious symbolisation of long life. In addition, Kakizakai Sensei's mother prepared luxurious servings of tempura, including yam, pumpkin, onion, squid with herbs, shrimp and Megumi-san made agedashi tofu (my favourite nutritious tofu delight) and many other delicious courses. The treat extended yet further. In response to our request (that we frankly thought might be too ambitious after sake flavoured by its barrel and so much culinary fun), Megumi-san (koto) and Kakizakai Sensei (1.6 shaku) played for us Michio Miyagi's Haru no ume (Spring Sea) (1929). Kundan and I were rapt and we felt very privileged. It was the perfect conclusion to his stay in Japan.

Temples No.6 Buku'un-ji + No.7 Hōchō-ji

A little 11km round trip took me to Yokoze this afternoon in the lovely sun. Although the temperature was less than 10 degrees the radiance was enticing and many people were out for a walk with their hounds. As my photos might reveal (garden, bamboo, forest), Temple No.6 Buku'un-ji itself proved elusive even after I climbed up a steep hill in the overgrown pine forest. Because dusk was closing in I chose not to search further for the building of temple no.6 and really I shouldn't yet cross it off my list (that would be cheating!). But the surrounding fruit gardens, decorative fountain, decking traversing the hillside were picturesque enough and the summit provided a different angle on the mountain and the small neighbouring town of Yokoze, dominated by the steaming limestone mill making cement and fruit/vegetable gardens. The many rows of fruit houses were cased in plastic for winter. Temple no.7 Hōchō-ji was more forthcoming and it is the elegant large copper roof you can see as you drive down the main road towards Tokyo from Chichibu, as we do on Saturday mornings for shakuhachi lessons. The contours of the temple roof and juxtaposition against the factory profile formed a bizarre contrast of pragmatism and traditional aesthetics.